I was lucky enough to spend a few days in Jerez earlier this month to visit some bodegas and soak up the atmosphere at the “Copa Jerez”, a biannual forum and gastronomic event which celebrates and promotes Sherry.
Teams comprising of a chef and a sommelier compete by cooking a 3 course meal and matching each dish with a different Sherry. Although Denmark won the overall competition, it was great to see team GB’s Will Stoyle from Silo restaurant win best chef. Will and Zoe Donadio, sommelier at Apricity also won the most creative pairing category for their beetroot dish matched with Cesar Florido’s Cruz del Mar cream.
As well as the culinary competition there was also plenty of opportunities to taste, visit bodegas and enjoy some tapas! Below are some of my highlights.
Bodegas Fernado Castilla is based in the heart of Jerez and renowned for it’s focus on high quality Sherries and Brandies. I love their Classic Amontillado which is a beautiful amber colour with complex notes of nuts and dried fruit. It was fascinating to compare this 7 year old version to their highly acclaimed “Antique Amontillado”. It starts life aging under flor like a Fino for 8 years before being fortified and then aging oxidatively in a solera for another 12 years. It has a wonderful hazelnut complexity and works beautifully with light game, mushrooms, patés and sweetbreads. We spotted this large format “Damajuana” in the very smart Mantura restaurant which was serving a specially bottled version by the glass. I’m trying to get a few specially shipped over so if anyone is interested let me know!
Bodegas Cesar Florido is one of the oldest, family run bodegas in Chipiona. Although it’s just outside the “Sherry Triangle” of Jerez, El Puerto and Sanlucar, I wanted to include it because it’s an important area for Moscatel and we’ve followed the Sherries for many years. In fact you can read about a previous visit here. It’s hard to pick out a favourite which says a lot about the quality of the range but I really enjoyed the Fino En Rama “Pena del Aguila”, bottled straight from the cask. It’s pungent and saline with notes of almond and olive brine. The Cruz del Mare cream is a blend of old Oloroso sweetened with about 25% Moscatel. It has a well balanced sweetness with notes of dried fruit and toffee. Those with a sweeter tooth shouldn’t hesitate to try the blossom scented Moscatel Dorado and the richer, sweeter Moscatel Pasas made from grapes dried in the vineyard.
Bodegas Barbadillo is based in Sanlucar de Barrameda on the coast and is known for it’s iconic Manzanillas. Barbadillo has a number of ageing warehouses in the town, most of which are on the high ground overlooking the town. This gives good exposure to the cooling sea breeze that gives a distinctive salinity to the wines, making them the perfect match to the local seafood. I love the Pastora Manzanilla En Rama. Barbadillo pioneered En Rama bottlings which are drawn straight from the cask with no or very little filtration giving a really authentic experience. The Pastora is also a “Pasada” or aged style with hints of oxidation from it’s 8 years of aging. It’s golden in colour, pungent and has hints of chamomile. The other stand out Sherry in the range for me is the Criadera Selection Palo Cortado En Rama. This ethereal and complex Sherry has nutty notes, hints of old furniture and a wonderfully long finish. It’s best served at a cool temperature in a wine glass – like all good Sherries!