One of the great pleasures of working in wine is getting behind the bottles and meeting the people who make them. On a recent trip to Piedmont, we visited La Mesma, a family-run winery in the hills of Gavi, and came away with an even greater appreciation for both the estate and the potential of Cortese, the grape behind Gavi DOCG.
La Mesma is a particularly fascinating producer because its story didn’t begin with generations of winemaking experience. In fact, quite the opposite.
Three sisters and a leap into winemaking
La Mesma was established in 2001 when the Rosina family began developing vineyards in the Gavi DOCG. Their mother encouraged her three daughters — Paola, Francesca and Anna — to have a go at making wine.
There was just one small problem: none of them had any previous winemaking experience!
What began as a family project and a desire to make wine for themselves, their friends and family has grown into a highly regarded estate with around 25 hectares of Cortese vines.
Today, the three sisters remain at the heart of La Mesma, with a philosophy centred on their vineyards, the local environment and allowing Cortese to express its sense of place.
And perhaps that makes their story all the more remarkable. There was no long-established family blueprint to follow — just enthusiasm, a piece of land and a willingness to learn.
Red soils, white soils and the character of Gavi
One of the things that really stood out during our visit to La Mesma was the contrast between the soils across the estate.
The vineyards around Monterotondo sit on the area’s characteristic terre bianche — white, calcareous and marl-rich soils. These give the wines freshness, precision and a wonderfully mineral character.
Further towards Tassarolo, the soils become distinctly red, with clay and iron-rich deposits. These soils bring more weight, texture and richness to the Cortese.
It is a wonderful illustration of how much variation exists within the relatively small Gavi wine region, and why we find producers like La Mesma so interesting.
Rather than simply making another bottle of Gavi, the team at La Mesma explores the relationship between Cortese, soil, vineyard and winemaking.
Four La Mesma wines at The Solent Cellar
We were sufficiently impressed by the wines during our visit to bring four of La Mesma’s wines back to The Solent Cellar.
La Mesma Etichetta Gialla Gavi DOCG 2025
Etichetta Gialla, or Yellow Label, is the estate’s original Gavi and a wonderful introduction to the La Mesma style.
Made from Cortese grown on white, calcareous soils, it combines the fresh citrus and floral character you’d expect from Gavi with a lovely mineral backbone and fine texture.
This is classic Gavi wine, but with considerably more character than many of the more commercial examples of the appellation.
Etichetta Nera, or Black Label, takes things up a level.
Made from older Cortese vines in Monterotondo, this is a more concentrated and textured expression of Gavi. Time on its lees in concrete tanks adds additional depth and a subtle creaminess, while the natural acidity of Cortese keeps the wine fresh and precise.
It is the sort of wine that makes you stop and reconsider the idea that Gavi is simply an easy-drinking young Italian white wine.
La Mesma Vigna della Rovere Verde Gavi Riserva 2020
Then there is Vigna della Rovere Verde Riserva, one of La Mesma’s flagship wines.
Made from a single vineyard of old Cortese vines planted in 1969. The distinctive red soils and naturally low yields bring higher acidity, extract and structure, the wine is given plenty of time to mature before release.
It is a brilliant example of what Gavi can become when the best vineyard sites, old vines and patient winemaking come together.
La Mesma Tempo al Tempo 2016
And finally, perhaps the most intriguing bottle of all: Tempo al Tempo.
The name roughly translates as “time to time” — an appropriate name for a wine that challenges the idea that Gavi should always be enjoyed young.
La Mesma deliberately holds Tempo al Tempo back for extended ageing before releasing it. With time in bottle, the fresh citrus and floral character of young Cortese develops into something more complex, mineral and savoury, whilst retaining the remarkable acidity that gives the wine its longevity.
For us, it is one of the most compelling wines in the La Mesma range because it demonstrates something that isn’t always appreciated about Gavi DOCG: good Cortese can age beautifully.
A different view of Gavi
What we loved about our visit to La Mesma was the sense of curiosity behind the wines. There is no attempt to disguise the character of Cortese or make the wines conform to a particular fashion.
Instead, the focus is on soil, old vines, freshness and time.
And that is what makes La Mesma such an exciting producer for us. Their wines show that Gavi can be much more than a fresh Italian white for a sunny afternoon.
At its best, Cortese wine has the acidity, minerality, texture and structure to make a genuinely serious food wine — and, given enough time, something considerably more complex.
Discover La Mesma Gavi at The Solent Cellar
We are delighted to stock La Mesma Etichetta Gialla, Etichetta Nera, Vigna della Rovere Verde Gavi Riserva and Tempo al Tempo.
If you’d like to explore the different expressions of Cortese and discover why we think La Mesma is one of the most exciting producers in Gavi, pop into our Lymington shop on Friday 28th August for a free tasting of all four wines from 5pm onwards. We’ll also be serving all four wines by the glass alongside some charcuterie platters in the shop and garden. A great way to start your Bank Holiday weekend!